Cloudy water - what can I do???

Cloudy water - what to do?

If the disinfection system is in order and the filters are working, a hot tub must have clear water!

So here I will explain one by one all the points to check and improve to make sure everything works. A pH value of 7.2-7.8 must be ensured so that disinfectants and systems of any kind are highly effective!

  • chemical disinfectants:
    • chlorine, bromine, active oxygen

It is important that ozone and chlorine/bromine should not be mixed together permanently! Both chlorine/bromine and ozone form free atoms that seek a bond (best with carbon = bacteria, algae, etc.) and if both are used at the same time, it can happen that chlorine bonds with oxygen instead of the atoms bonding the "evil, living" substances in the water fall from carbon.

  • Automatic disinfection:
    • UVC - UV system: make sure that the glass tube through which the water is irradiated is not fogged up or dirty. That would reduce the radiation and massively reduce the disinfection effect.
    • Ozone system: Arguably the easiest, most efficient and healthiest way to disinfect spa water when you consider a few simple things.
      • Disinfection times: Always set to 24h circulation and ozone runtime at the beginning. If the water is perfect or if the whirlpool is rarely used, you can also reduce the times.
      • Ozonator: Different ozonators have different ozone production amounts. Choosing the right ozonator.
        • Check whether the installation direction of the ozonator fits (this is important for whirlpools with ozonators with membrane pumps!) and whether it works (usually displayed with a green control lamp).
        • Check whether the suction side of the ozonator fits. The suction holes are often too small or covered with fibers to reduce air humidity, which quickly stick together. Drill out the suction hole to at least 3mm and remove the piece of cloth on the suction side.
      • Ozone admixture: This is done using Mazzei injectors, which work with the Venturi vacuum system and are connected to the ozonator by means of a hose line with a non-return valve.
        • Mazzei injector: It is important to choose the right injector and the right water flow rate for the injector. This can be influenced as follows:
          • Prevent alternative backflow options so that as much water as possible from the circulation pump has to bypass the injector. Waterfalls or hot water return pipes are often also attached to this circuit. Turn off the waterfall when not in use! If possible, turn off the hot water return nozzle as far as possible (this can often be done using a hemisphere in the tip that is placed against the current)!
          • Ensure flow in the ozone line: some whirlpools have built-in mixing chambers that get dirty over time or clog with biofilm. Remove these mixing chambers. Ozone works for 20 seconds. Ie with or without mixing chamber the return should last at least 20 seconds. You can easily test this by holding the ozone suction closed and measuring how long it takes for ozone bubbles to appear in the pool again after the suction has been released again.
          • Check that the non-return valve in the Mazzei injector is not clogged or clogged with dirt and therefore does not open sufficiently.
        • Connecting line ozonator - injector: These two components are connected with a hose line with a non-return valve.
          • Check whether the hose line is fully permeable (not kinked, not laid with dirt or nitric acid compounds (result as a sticky film in the hose when ozone is generated))
          • Check that the non-return valve in the line is fully permeable. Remove, wash and blow through.
          • In order to avoid an erroneous intake of air instead of ozone along the line path at connection points, you can also seal all connection points with insulating tape.
  • Filter:
    • Paper filter: If the filters become clogged, the flow rate is naturally reduced and the suction on the injector also decreases, as does the ozone feed. Filters are difficult to clean because sticky substances cannot be removed mechanically, only chemically. It is better to replace the filter more often than too infrequently. The filter effect is limited by the fiber mesh size. The absorption capacity is limited with the rather small filter surface. It is almost impossible to visually determine whether the filter has really become clean. Just because the filter is lighter again does not mean that the pores of the filter fabric are free again.
    • EGO3 filters: Can hardly clog, since they do not act like a filter net of the paper filter (cartridge filter), but according to the turbulence principle along free flow channels. They filter out everything down to 1 micrometer and in enormous quantities, since the complete 3-dimensional space of the filter balls is available as a filter space. In addition, these filter balls are much easier to clean and you can see if they are clean.
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